Selecting and Wearing Ao Dai

Ao Dai (or Áo dài) are a traditional Vietnamese outfit now used as formalwear. Although Ao Dai translates to "long shirt", it is often used to refer to a matching top and pants outfit (bộ).

Ao Dai have multiple varieties and styles, varying in collar, fabric type, design style, and cut of top. The modern ao dai is made of a silk blend that can be machine-washed like most garments. Optionally, they can be placed in a mesh bag during washing to prevent snags, and cool water as well as a delicate cycle is recommended to extend the life of the silk blend.

For accessories often worn with ao dai such as the formal khan dong or the braided headband, visit here.

 

Choosing Your Ao Dai

Collar Types

The ao dai has two main types of collars: the traditional high collar, and the more casual collarless (resembling a scoop neck collarline).

High collars appear elegant, but may feel stifling or constricting if the ao dai size is wrong or the wearer is not used to having something surrounding the neck. Due to being enclosed, they are also harder to fit broader or muscular shoulders. Most wedding and formal ao dai default to high collar style.

Collarless or round neck ao dai tend to be easier to wear than high collar ao dai. Because they're open, they have extra room for broad shoulders. Casual party ao dai tend to be collarless.

Fabric and Design Types

Silk Print is typically smooth and lightweight. These can be plain and evenly dyed, or have dramatic scenes and patterns printed onto the ao dai fabric. Generally, these are the lowest cost ao dai and used for both casual and formal occasions.

Brocade is silky and lightly textured with patterns woven into the fabric itself. Brocade ao dai often have dramatic metallic or glossy patterns, though they can also be more muted. This fabric type tends to snag, so it is recommended to be cautious with it like satin. Brocade ao dai are slightly more expensive than silk print, but can also be used for both casual and formal occasions.

Velvet ao dai are soft, luxurious garments often used in cooler months or northern areas because they retain heat. The material is stretchier and flexible in sizing for a more form-fitting figure. Due to the luxurious look, velvet ao dai are considered semi-formal to formal. This fabric type can be combined with other decorative styles such as raised print textures or sequin bedazzling.

Embroidered ao dai have raised designs made of thread, some of which get quite detailed. Embroidery can range from scenic designs made of lines of thread, to 3D textured flowers, to lacy golden trim, and so on. Smaller embroidery designs can snag and slip threads, but this can be fixed by simply cutting off the dangling threads as it won't affect the rest of the work. As a more traditional style, embroidered ao dai are considered somewhat formal. This style of design can be combined with other styles as well, such as a brocade fabric and extra beading.

Bedazzled is the most extravagant style, having many sequins, beads, pearls, and so on handsewn onto the dress. As a form of 3D art, bedazzled ao dai are usually the most eye catching. These have many threads on the inner layers of the ao dai holding the decoration in place, and any threads that break should be tied back in place to avoid strings of beading coming off. Highly bedazzled ao dai are mainly found at classy events or important holidays.

- We strongly recommend turning bedazzled ao dai inside out and placing them inside a mesh bag if you plan to machine wash them.

Layering is an add-on for any of the above styles. These ao dai have double to triple layers of fabric, making them look more flowing and elegant.

Regardless of fabric type, most ao dai tops will be matched with solid-color silk blend ao dai pants.

 

Ao Dai Styles

Traditional

These ao dai should be snug without being constricting, while still loose enough that the fabric doesn't bunch up around joints. They are ankle to floor length, though not long enough to accidentally step on. This is the most common style when one thinks of Ao Dai, and can be used at both formal and casual outings. This style is suitable for all ages.

Wedding ao dai mainly come in this style to emphasize the bride's figure. Red, white, and cream are the most common wedding colors. The ao dai are often made with gold lace trim or a long train, and often worn with accessories such as khan dong (a wide-brimmed turban/hat). There are also ao dai made in matching couple's pairs, suitable for weddings or date nights.

This style is worn with traditional wide leg ao dai pants.

If an ao dai top is too long, it can usually either be hemmed or worn with heels to make up the height difference.

Knee-length (Cách Tân)

These are a more casual ao dai style that reaches to the knees or calves. Their fit varies from snug like traditional ao dai to a looser style, depending on the cut of the top, and are made for people of all ages. This type of ao dai is best reserved for casual outings or less formal holidays.

These can be paired with either ao dai pants or modern black or white leggings.

Youthful/Modernized

These are the newest style of ao dai. Though also called cách tân, they're made of a looser fit and frequently have two or more layers of translucent fabric to catch the light. Their designs may have buttons or small bows attached as well. Like their name, these are primarily styled for for younger women or kids to emphasize their youthful looks, often coming in colors such as pink, cream, or light blue.

These are usually worn with ao dai pants to match their more subtle figure.

Pants

Ao Dai pants are traditionally a wide leg cut, made of a lightweight but non-stretching silk blend that's meant to be easy to walk around and sit in. Modern ao dai pants usually have a front zipper similar to normal pants, and may or may not have an elastic waistband.

White is the most traditional pants color and can be worn with almost any ao dai top. Otherwise, you can pick pants that either match the main color of the ao dai or highlight a color in its design (e.g. a green ao dai with gold flowers can match with green or gold pants).

Our Ao Dai pants come in satin (a shiny and eye-catching fabric that snags easily) or matte (a smoother, subtler and somewhat more durable fabric). We have a wide variety of colors, with the most popular colors being white, gold, red, and light pink. Our sizes range up to 8XL in stock, and we can also custom order for size or unusual body builds such as wide hips.

View our pants selection here.

Men's Ao Dai

Men's ao dai are made of thicker material than women's ao dai, resembling a buttoned-up jacket that reaches the knees. Likewise, men usually wear regular pants such as jeans, slacks, or khakis as appropriate for the occasion and the ao dai jacket. Men's ao dai are usually considered festive rather than casual or business-formal, and are mostly seen during holidays or special occasions such as weddings.

These ao dai may have inner shoulder pads attached. If the ao dai fabric is uncomfortable, undershirts and tank tops are fine to wear as long as they don't peek out of the collar or under the jacket.

Younger or well-built men frequently choose bold colors such as red or blue, while older or larger men often choose muted colors such as maroon, tan, or navy. However, ao dai come in other colors as well, such as white, black, green, yellow, and silver. There are also ao dai made in matching couple's pairs, suitable for weddings or date nights.

Depending on the occasion, men may also wear khan dong, a hat-like turban, to go with their ao dai.

While men can choose to wear white ao dai pants, they are made of a different, stiffer material than women's ao dai pants. We unfortunately do not stock them for adults, but we can order a pair as part of a custom outfit request.